When hinges creak in doorless forests…
After dinner we waited until just before dark and then headed out for Okunoin, Kobo Daishi’s Shrine, via the 1 mile path through the cemetery. Yes, we waited until dark to visit a cemetery. Yes, we are strange.
The path is lit well enough to walk, but only outlines the silhouettes of the more than 200,000 tombstones here. The entire cemetery is in the center of a centuries old forest, so in addition to the darkness of the night, you are also cradled by towering cypress trees. To say it was an experience is an understatement. We were the only ones there, so beyond our footsteps the only sounds were those of the forest. I will admit that it was a bit frightening at times, being out there with the unfamiliar noises in a vast sea of tombstones. But this is one of the main reasons we came, and it was every bit as awe inspiring as we expected it would be.
After making our way over the river (literally) and through the woods (literally), we arrived at Kobo Daishi’s Shrine, the Offering Hall and the Hall of Lamps. Being that this is the most sacred land in Koyasan, it is said that one must clean their soul before crossing the last bridge to the shrine – which we did from the Tamagawa stream. Because it was late we were not able to enter the buildings, but we were able to see the impressive glow of the hall of lamps, completely filled with lamps sent as offerings by followers. We also lit a candle and incense, something we have not done at any temple on this trip except this one, there was just something about the journey that made it seem right.
Our journey back was slightly more comfortable, having become familiar with the various sounds of the forest. We met two delightful frogs on the path as well, and made note of a few things we missed on the way in. The entire trip took just over an hour, and like everything we’ve seen on this trip, it is something we will never forget.
Arriving back at Shojoshin-in we decided to visit the communal baths, which turned out to be less than communal since no one else was around. Bathing here is done on a small wooden stool where you soap off, rinse and then once you are clean you soak in a very large, very warm wooden tub. It was a great experience, and it makes me want a very large, very warm wooden tub at home. From there it was up to the room to go through the nearly 400 photos I took today, and then off to bed with the sounds of the wind in the trees lulling us to sleep.
